Dampier Peninsula

On leaving Derby we opted to use a (private) back road to access the Dampier Peninsula. This was an interesting option that reduced the distance considerably, but consisted of a little used, but for the most part, reasonable surface in comparison to what we have been used to lately. We were carrying 2 sets of maxtrax recovery tracks as insurance so we were fairly certain that we would not need them based on the principle that you never need these things unless you don't have them. A momentary lapse of concentration on a particularly soft and deep section of sand saw us sinking into the mire and going nowhere. Off the roof came the maxtrax and soon we were rocketing off down the track, keeping up the revs and the momentum. Returning to retrieve the maxtrax we were greeted by an empty sea of sand, but after a bit of digging about the bright orange of our maxtrax was discovered under the surface and we were able to be on our way. Maxtrax are definitely winners in our book. We could otherwise still be there waiting for someone to come past and rescue us, or at a minimum we would have been shovelling our way to China.

This route brought us out half way up the road to Cape Leveque and we drove in on a rough sand track to an aboriginal community (Gnylmarung) which had been recommended. The facilities were rudimentary and the camping area quite small, but what a glorious place. We set up camp with panoramic views of Beagle Bay and enjoyed swimming, strolling on the beach and fishing for three days. The night sky was something else as we sat at the campfire as the moon came up later in the evening. On the second day we feasted on fish for lunch followed by a freshly cooked mudcrab for afternoon tea kindly donated by the community.

We stopped at Midle Lagoonon on the way out as we had heard such good reports, but we were disappointed that it was so crowded in comparison with where we had been and decided this was not for us. We drove to Kooljamin Resort at Cape Leveque where there were stunning views and whales swimming just offshore, but the camping area did not appeal and we decided to look further as we had been told of another aboriginal community, Ganbanon, at One Arm Point. We drove in and liked the look of it, so we paid for a couple of nights and went to search for a camp site. Well, take a look at the photos and you might be able to guess that we might pay for a couple more nights yet.

Horozontal Falls continued

The next morning we enjoyed the sunrise on the top deck before boarding the speed boat for another adrenalin pumping voyage through the raging surf of the falls. We then had another enjoyable flight in the seaplane over the ethereal landscape of the Buccaneer Archipellago. Tonight we revisited the restaurant at Derby Jetty to again experience a startling sunset.

Horozontal Falls

We were very lucky to be able to book onto an overnight trip to the Horozontal Falls coinciding with a full moon. We travelled to Derby the day before and enjoyed a wonderful seafood meal at a restaurant overlooking the Derby jetty, and timed it to sit and watch the sun setting over the jetty, a truely geat experience. The next afternoon we were taken by seaplane over some stunning coastal areas marked by extensive tidal flats, and a miriad of dendtric little rivulets of water finding its way influenced by the huge tides of the region. We arrived at Talbot Bay where we boarded a powerful boat to first explore some of the picturesque tributaries before an exhilirating ride to view and then ford the raging tidal flow escaping through the narrow entrance into the beautiful and expansive bay behind.

We then returned to houseboat accomodation where we had a delicious meal of barrumundi washed down with a delicious white wine, and settled in to enjoy both a magnificent sunset, and then the glow of a full moon over the glassy waters of Talbot Bay.

Bell Gorge

Bell Gorge is one of the most visited and acclaimed gorges and we have loved visiting it now for the second time. Although the camping area is a bit overful at times, the fellow campers in all the camps are nearly always a great mob, and fountains of information about places to visit, and road conditions. There is a steep walk into the gorge, but there is a geat pool to swim in and cool down, and the waterfall is certainly spectacular. There are very slippry limestone rock shelves which make access an adventure, and prove testing for many of the people who visit this site. Photo

After a couple of nights we headed of to Windjana for a couple of very warm days which saw us enjoying the colours of the setting sun after relaxing in the river for a cool swim with some of the large resident population of obviously welcomiing fresh water crocs.

Mornington Wilderness Park

After two night at Manning Gorge we headed off to Mornington. The ninety Kilometers of entrance road from the Gibb River Road was for the most part exceptionally good. However, we still passed three vehicles with shredded tyres??? So far we have not suffered anything but a lot of tyre wear from the rough roads and this is a marvell considering what we have seen and heard off as happening to others. At Mitchell Falls there was one hapless driver with his bullbar strapped to the roof racks.

The landscape leading into Mornington was absolutely stunning, and only got better as we drove around their access tracks.
 

We dragged our canoe down a steep and rocky goat track into Dimond Gorge, shot rapid which we later had to drag the canoe back up, and exhilirated, went on to a glorious day exploring the beautiful water way. We enjoyed a nice feed of barramundi at the restaurant, and spent three very relaxing nights.

Next we visited Charnley Station. This was not quite so serene as the camp site adjoins the station generator which is turned on at 6am, and sometimes is turned off at 10pm.  The rivers were not much more than trickles with the dry season setting in, but we still discovered some lovely places to visit.

Off to Manning Gorge

The three days we spent at King Edward River was a great opportunity to relax after the teeth rattling, shock-absorber destroying return from Mitchell Falls. The Kalumburu Road, while enough to deter most sensible drivers, was almost a joy in comparison. The UHF radio antenna is now strapped to the HF radio antenna. We knew the HF antenna would be useful for something. On the Kalumburu Road we passed a landcruiser that had rolled over the night before, and then ten kilometers later a late model Landcruiser with a shattered diferential hpusing. The jovial character in the second vehicle, waiting for a flatbed to retrieve his car, said that the diver of the overturned landcruiser had walked past in the midle of the night intent on walking the forty kilometers to the next station. He had left his girlfriend with the car.

We made it to the Barnett Road House without major incident and forked out more big bucks to fill the tank ($2.05/litre), before booking into the Manning Gorge camping area. This was a nice campground, although the solar hotwater has been broken for two years. The apologetic signage might lead you to believe that this was a recent and temporary abberation. Our stay here was very enjoyable, and the gorge was as pretty as ever. Photoes include a nice reflection in the water hole, a view of the gorge from the top of the falls, and Galvin's Gorge which we visited one afternoon.

Day 50 Derby WA

It has been 18 days & just under 1200kms since our last post from Kununurra, due to no access to the internet over that time  along the Gibb River Road.
We have now reached the west coast of Australia after 7 weeks travelling.
From Kununurra, we went to El Questro & spent a few days in one of their private bush camps with our personal river access - very pleasant. While there, we visited Blanco's Lookout, where we got married in 2009 - photo - we were dressed differently last time though. We walked into Emma and Amalia Gorges and swam in the pools at the foot of the water falls into the gorges - very refreshing (read chiily)! and drove over some of their 4wd tracks to some scenic lagoons & lookouts.
The next stop was King Edward River at the beginning of the Mitchell Falls road - one of the prettiest campsites so far. Photo. We stayed there 4 nights all up - one on the way to Mitchell falls and 3 on the way back. We swam, canoed, fished, walked & visited some great aboriginal rock art sites while there.

The 70+km road to Mitchell Falls was a rough, rocky, corrugated, bulldust, narrow, with plenty of unexpected creek crossings. On our first day, we walked into and back from the falls visiting a couple of aboriginal rock art sites and taking a few dips to cool off along the way. This took about 5 hours all up. On the second day we walked into the falls and took an 18 minute helicopter flight back to the camp ground after following the Mitchell river from above the falls to the ocean - quite spectacular and very enjoyable. Photo.

Thanks Lea. John was right, the chain did fall off, fortunately without harm to either it or the operator.